Dialogue with Nature #03 Dialogue with Nature #03

「遥かな頂 - 富士山」 鈴木優香 The Distant Summit of Mt. Fuji - Yuka Suzuki

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さらさらと降り注ぐ雨は足元の火山礫をより深い黒に染め、カラマツの葉先では透明な丸い粒に姿を変える。閉山を間近に控えた9月上旬。須走の登山道は静けさに包まれていた。ただ地面を踏みしめる、ざりり、ざりり、という音だけが響く。

The drizzling rain turned the volcanic rubble at our feet a deeper black, and the tips of the larch leaves morphed into clear round grains. It is early September, just before the end of climbing season. The mountain trail at Subashiri is enveloped in silence. The only sound was the crunching of feet on the ground.

雨降りの山には辟易するが、富士山のそれには、試練を与えてくれているという気持ちになる。信仰の対象となる山に登ることを登拝と表すように、富士山に登る行為そのものが、神仏に思いを寄せる意味を持つのである。立山や白山と共に日本三霊山と呼ばれる富士山であるが、日本一の標高を誇り、美しい山容を持つ独立峰であるが故に、他峰よりも神聖な空気を強く感じるのだろう。

Although I am daunted by the rainy mountain, Mt. Fuji gives me the feeling that I am being put to the test. Just as climbing a sacred mountain is expressed as tohai in Japanese (worship climb), climbing Mt. Fuji is in itself an act of devotion to the gods. Fuji is called one of the three sacred mountains in Japan, along with Mt. Tateyama and Mt. Haku, but as the highest peak in Japan and an independent mountain with a breath-taking appearance, it feels to have a more sacred air than other peaks.

この日は3時間ほど歩いて、本六合目(標高2,630m)の山小屋に泊まった。ときおり金剛杖に焼印を求める登山客が訪れて、またその先へと歩いて行く。夜はすぐにやってきて、空には星が瞬いた。

On this day, we walked for about three hours and stayed at the mountain lodge at the Sixth Station (2,630 meters above sea level). From time to time, climbers would come seeking a branding for their kongozue walking sticks, then depart on their way again. Night came quickly, and the stars twinkled in the sky.

明け方に再び雨が降り、ぱたりと止んだ。御来光は雲に隠れていたので、そそくさと荷物を背負い山小屋を発った。森林限界を越えると、黒々とした山肌には黄色や黄緑色のかたまりが点々と張り付いている。オンタデやイタドリといった高山植物である。

At dawn, it rained again and then stopped. The sunrise was hidden in the clouds, so we quickly packed our gear and left the lodge. As we crossed the forest line, the black mountain surface was covered with yellow and yellow-green clumps. They were alpine plants such as alpine knotweed and Japanese knotweed.

七合目(標高2,930m)を目の前にして、雲の切れ間から太陽の光が溢れ出した。それは辺り一面に降り注ぎ、歩く私たちも、植物も、岩も、山にある全てを平等に照らした。

As we approached the Seventh Station (2,930 meters above sea level), the sun's rays poured out from between the clouds and flooded the area. The rays shone down all around us, illuminating us trekkers, the plants, the rocks, and everything else on the mountain equally.

次第に赤々としてくる山肌を見ながら、じぐざぐと作られた道に沿って進む。足元は細かな火山礫から拳ほどの火山岩へと変わり、がしゃ、がしゃ、という乾いた音を立てる。八合目(標高3,270m)あたりで始まった頭痛は、高山病の症状のひとつである。新たな試練を仕方なく受け入れ、本八合目、九合目と登り、山頂に建つ久須志神社の鳥居をついに潜った。

We followed the winding path that was slowly being built, admiring the mountain surface as it gradually turned red. Under our feet, the fine volcanic rubble turned into volcanic rocks the size of our fists, making a dry crunching sound. The headache that started around the Eighth Station (elevation 3,270 meters) is a symptom of altitude sickness. I had no choice but to accept this new hardship, and after climbing to the Eighth and Ninth Stations, I finally passed through the torii gate of Kusushi Shrine, which stands at the top of the mountain.

巨大な火口の淵に立つと、激しい火山活動の歴史を、おどろおどろしく赤黒い岩壁に垣間見ることができる。その深さは八合目まで達するという。この火口を一周するお鉢廻りを経て、最高地点である剣ヶ峰(標高3,776m)に立って初めて登頂したと言えるのだが、あと僅かというところで引き返すことになったのは、強まる頭痛と吐き気にすっかり気力を奪われてしまったからである。

Standing at the edge of the massive crater, we could catch a glimpse of the history of intense volcanic activity on the menacing red-black rock walls. The depth of the crater is said to reach as deep as the eighth station. The summit, Kenga-mine (3,776 meters above sea level), is finally reached after circling the crater. However, even though I was so close, I had to turn back because the increasing headache and nausea had completely drained my energy.

下山の道では冷たい雪と雨に見舞われ、もはや懲り懲りという思いで山を後にしたが、その数日後にはなぜか、次はどのようにして登ろうかという気持ちが沸いてきた。富士山にはやはり、人を惹きつける不思議な力が宿っているらしい。

On the way down the mountain, we were met by cold snow and rain, and I left the mountain feeling like I had learned my lesson. However, a few days later, for some reason, I felt the urge to reach the summit again. It seems that Mt. Fuji possesses a mysterious force that draws people.

【今回歩いたコース】
須走ルート
1日目:約2時間半
須走口五合目(2,000m)~瀬戸館(2,630m)
2日目:約9時間半
瀬戸館~淺間大社奧宮久須志神社(3,715m)~お鉢廻り~須走口五合目

【Our route this time】
Subashiri Route
Day 1: Approx. 2.5 hours
Fifth Station at Subashiri entrance (2,000m) to Setokan (2,630m)
Day 2: about 9.5 hours
Setokan - Sengen Taisha Okumiya Kusushi Shrine (3,715m) - Crater rim trail- Fifth Station at Subashiri entrance

【今回着用したアイテム】
W TECH LITE SS LOW CREWE (color: GR / EB)
W 200 OASIS LS CREWE (color: BR)
W MOUNTAINEER HVY (color: MS)

【Items worn】
W TECH LITE SS LOW CREWE (color: GR / EB)
W 200 OASIS LS CREWE (color: BR)
W MOUNTAINEER HVY (color: MS)

【プロフィール】
鈴木優香
山岳収集家。大学院卒業後はアウトドアメーカーに入社し、商品企画・デザインを手がける。2016年に独立し、山で見た景色をハンカチに仕立ててゆくプロジェクト「MOUNTAIN COLLECTOR」を開始。山と旅をライフワークとしながら、写真・デザイン・執筆などを通じた表現活動を続けている。
www.mountaincollector.com

【Profile】
Yuka Suzuki
After graduating from graduate school, she joined an outdoor manufacturer, where she worked on product planning and design, before going independent in 2016 and starting her own project, "MOUNTAIN COLLECTOR," in which she makes handkerchiefs from the scenery she sees in the mountains. She continues to express herself through photography, design, and writing, with mountains and travel as her life's work.
www.mountaincollector.com

2021年10月4日(月) Oct 4, 2021

写真・文:鈴木優香

Photo & Text: Yuka Suzuki


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