REPORTAGE 01 DOWN FACTORY NATURAL MATERIAL

After knowing the quality of natural materials,
we dive deeper into the evolution of synthetic fibers.
We arrived at a textile factory in Nakanoto city on the Ishikawa prefecture.
The care put into every strand and every fabric is what warms us
when we face the harshest conditions nature has to offer.

1枚の織物に宿る、 未来につながる技術の一歩。To dwell in one textile, one step in the craft that will bring us into the future.

A “shell” is a must have piece of outerwear in the world of outdoor life. From the Gore-Tex representative waterproof and breathable wear to the waterproof only rain coat, there are a variety of items. The North Face has revolutionary new weaving technology for creating a single piece of shell fabric called “Fuse Form”. It is a textile that weaves two pieces of fabric together to form one single fabric. You get a combination of the highest strength and functionality from this one piece of innovative fabric. For example, when raising the strength of the shoulder region of a shell when carrying backpacks, the entire process of the pattern cutting, sewing, fixing the seams, and sealing with seam tape, completely gets replaced. At a first glimpse, it may seem like a regular shell, but there will be no seam. In addition the needed components are completely unrestricted. It was The North Face that first had the idea, but it was the textile factory in Ishikawa prefecture Japan that made the program possible. In Nakanoto, there is traditional hemp fabric, “Notojofu”, facility and the town itself is world recognized for producing textiles.
A gigantic spool of thread is called a “beam.” This workspace is for winding the warp threads onto the beams. With music playing in the background, there was also a robot that helped transport the beams.
This picture shows the warp threads being wound onto the beams. Speed must be regulated as threads are extremely delicate and fine. It is a beautiful sight but tough job in quality control of the threads.
Warp threads were created in a process that takes one week to ten days and the final process requires hands on dexterous work. There are many hands on steps in the process of combining the warp and weft threads.
The word that comes up frequently in conversations with the project manager of Fuse Form is “denier.” Denier is the thread thickness measurement unit and because this is a cutting edge weaving technology, it is a key terminology. “With denier, the lower the number the finer the thread. A 9000m long thread that is only 1g is 1 denier. The North Face’s lightest down fabric is 7 denier and to the point where it is hard to see with the naked eye. The Fuse Form is thicker and woven with 20 denier threads, but even then the thread is extremely small and hardly has a sense of feel when touched. It took half a year to put the image into form from first hearing the idea of the new fabric. Creating the design specifications took a month alone. That in itself is three times the standard. All of the warp threads are the same, but the weft threads are mixed in both size and material. This is an extremely difficult process as even if the denier is the same, a difference in elasticity will cause wrinkles, and the smaller the threads the easier it is to develop tears. At first, we were unable to utilize our preferred weaving methods with the current machinery, so we came up with an innovative technique that utilized a combination of both the regular warp threads and special warp set threads. For producing differences in fabrics, in addition to thread selection, they had to experiment with weaving various fabrics like satin and twill. The fabrics are produced up until the raw fabric stage at this factory and sent out to a dyer to be colored, thus everything is considered in the beginning process. It was a long continuation of trial and error. But, everything is looking good now and we are excited to be trying even newer things!”
“Fuse Form” is currently only being used for shells. Further revolutionary shells made from a surprising mix of fabrics and new technology will surely be released in the future. Technology innovation helps produce smiles in the outdoor world.
Weaving raw fabric. Extremely shrill sound from the air jet machine.
FUSE FORM TRANGO PARKA
FUSE FORM TRANGO PARKA
One of the shapes used in the new technology Fuse Form is this nylon parka. KODENSHI Primaloft insulation.
no.: NY81410
price: ¥39,000
size: XS, S, M, L, XL
weight: 555g
color: Hannoh Blue,
Valencia Orange, Black
ACONCAGUA JACKET 進化していく、アコンカグアジャケット。
ACONCAGUA JACKET
At first it was 10 denier warp and 30 denier weft threads. After that they added a polished feel, and finally made that polished feel milder. ¥28,500
1. Raw fabric before dyeing and a completed FUSE FORM VERT JACKET. 2. Completed raw fabric. 3. Fuse Form project manager.
FUSE FORM VERT JACKET
FUSE FORM VERT JACKET
Water-resistant Fuse Form shell. A single piece of fabric with flexible shoulder movement.
no.: NP61401
price: ¥20,000
size: S, M, L, XL
weight: 170g
color: Salsa Red,
Drummer Blue, Black
VERT JACKET
VERT JACKET
Ultralight wind shell with minimal sewing seams and high wind resistance. 1000mm water-resistant suitable for normal rainfall.
no.: NP71442
price: ¥10,000
size: S, M, L, XL
weight: 80g
color: Drummer Blue,
Acid Yellow, Urban Navy,
Luna Ice Gray, Black
ALL MOUNTAIN JACKET
ALL MOUNTAIN JACKET
All around outer shell suitable for all seasons. A standard good for the mountains or walking in town.
no.: NP61405
price: ¥44,000
size: S, M, L, XL, XXL
weight: 480g
color: Drummer Blue, Salsa Red,
Acid Yellow, Urban Navy, Black
ICICLE JACKET
ICICLE JACKET
A hard shell for alpine climbers. A short cut with attached leg loops designed to accommodate a harness.
no.: NP61301
price: ¥57,000
size: S, M, L, XL
weight: 450g
color: Hannoh Blue,
Acid Yellow, Black
KICHATNA JACKET
KICHATNA JACKET
Gore-Tex® PRO shell for extre-me conditions. Protects the body with a long cut and hood.
no.: NP61303
price: ¥57,000
size: S, M, L, XL, WM, WL
weight: 560g
color: Hannoh Blue,
Valencia Orange, Black
ALPINE VENT SHELL JACKET
ALPINE VENT SHELL JACKET
Vent shell that regulates temperature and made from brea-thable-waterproof stretch knit materials.
no.: NP61407
price: ¥22,000
size: S, M, L, XL
weight: 245g
color: Drummer Blue, Acid
Yellow, Luna Ice Gray, Black
TRANSFORMER JACKET
TRANSFORMER JACKET
A transformer jacket perfect for hiking with a detachable backpack or as skiwear.
no.: NS61405
price: ¥52,000
size: S, M, L, XL
weight: 900g
color: Drummer Blue,
Luna Ice Gray, Black
PANTHER JACKET
PANTHER JACKET
A coat jacket with a three layered structure and vintage feel. Most suited for town use out of the eight items.
no.: NP61409
price: ¥38,000
size: S, M, L, XL
weight: 480g
color: Classic Khaki,
Urban Navy, Black
FUSE FORM
There are two ways to get wet when on the mountain. First is rainfall, second is from sweating on the inside. The Vent Shell has waterproof, anti-wind, and breatha-bility functionality suitable for trail runners, speed hikers, and various activities in humid Japan.
For one day trips, this single item covers both your rain wear and wind shell necessities.
VENT SHELL
Fuse Form is taking one fabric and weaving it with another. It is a cutting age innovative weaving technology for reducing sewing seams, strengthening fabric, and weight reduction.
The North Face Summit GORE-TEX® PRO GORE-TEX® STEEP SERIES HyVent Hyvent-D Water Repellent Zippers Waterproof Pocketable Ventilations Static Care STRETCH Pac System KOUDENSHI Primaloft Stuff Sack