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        Dialogue with Nature #08 Dialogue with Nature #08

        「ヒツジグサと熊 - 尾瀬ヶ原・至仏山」 鈴木優香 Water Lilies and Bears – Ozegahara/Mount Shibutsu - Yuka Suzuki

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        新宿から尾瀬戸倉まで高速バスに揺られ、そこから乗り合いタクシーで鳩待峠へ向かう。ここから山の鼻小屋までは1時間ほどの道のりである。気温は10℃に満たない。寒さに慣れるまでは腕組みをして黙々と歩く。

        It took an express bus from Shinjuku to Oze Tokura, followed by a shared taxi heading to Hatomachi-toge Pass. From there it took another hour of walking to get to the mountain hut, Oze Yamanohanagoya. The temperature was below 10℃, so I folded my arms and walked along silently until I got used to the cold.

        小屋の受付を済ませてから散策にでかけた。ここから先は尾瀬ヶ原と呼ばれるエリアである。一帯に広がる湿原は落ち着いた黄金色をしており、風が通り抜けるたびにさわさわと波を立てる。草紅葉にも様々な種類があるが、その中でもキンコウカ(金光花・金黄花と書く)の葉は蛍光に近いオレンジになり、自然の色とは思えない鮮やかさである。

        After completing the registration procedures at Yamanohanagoya, I set out for a walk. Beyond the hut lies the area called Ozegahara. The marshland spreading across this area is tinged with calm hues of yellow and gold, and rustling waves ripple through every time the wind blows. It is home to various types of autumn grasses. Among them, the leaves of the Narthecium asiaticum (known as “kinkoka” and written in Japanese with the characters for “golden-light flower” or “golden-yellow flower”) turn a shade of orange that is almost fluorescent. Its colors are so vivid it is hard to believe they are, in fact, natural.

        さらに木道を進むと、地塘に浮かぶヒツジグサに出合った。こちらは色付き始めたばかりのようで、黄緑から橙へ移り変わる途中にあった。名前の由来は葉の形が羊の蹄に似ているからだと思っていたが、調べてみると未の刻(午後2時頃)に花が開くからなのだという。※諸説あり

        Heading further along the wooden path brought me face to face with water lilies (“hitsuji-gusa”) floating in a swampy pond. They appeared to have just begun to change colors, and were halfway through transitioning from yellow-green to orange. I thought that their Japanese name, which literally means “sheep grass,” had been derived from the similarity between the shapes of the leaves and sheep hooves, but after looking it up, I learned that it comes from the fact that the flowers blossom at the “hour of the Sheep” (around 2:00 p.m.).* There are various theories.

        ヒツジグサの可愛らしさにすっかり釘付けになり、近目に観察出来る場所を求めて先へ先へと歩いていると、いつの間にか牛首分岐の手前まで来ていたことに気付く。そろそろ戻ろうかと思った矢先に、雨の雫がその丸い葉をぱたぱたと叩き、続いてさーっと音を立てて降り始めた。

        Captivated by how adorable the water lilies were, I found myself walking further and further in search of a spot where I could observe them close up. Before I knew it, I was standing in front of Ushikubi Junction. Just as I decided it was time to turn back, droplets of rain started pattering on the rounded leaves, then started pelting down in earnest.

        翌日は小雨の降るなか至仏山に向かった。この山を構成する蛇紋岩は滑りやすく、崩壊しかけた木の階段にも気を遣った。ときおり立ち止まっては尾瀬ヶ原のほうを振り返り、息を整えてまた登った。

        The next day, I headed to Mount Shibutsu amidst a light rain. The serpentinite rocks that make up this mountain were slippery, and I also had to pay attention to the wooden staircase that was on the brink of collapsing. From time to time, I would stop and look back over the views of Ozegahara, then catch my breath and continue climbing upward.

        山頂に着いても天候は回復しなかったが、小至仏山を経て悪沢岳分岐にさしかかったときにようやく青空が見えた。登山道の脇にある岩に座って休憩していると、下方に黒い動物が歩いているのが見えた。おそらくツキノワグマだろう。かなり距離があったので大きさはわからない。カメラを構えたが少し遅かった。

        The weather did not improve even after I reached the peak, but I finally saw blue skies after I had passed Mount Koshibutsu and hit the junction of Mount Warusawa. As I was sitting on a rock next to the climbing trail to take a break, I saw a black-colored animal walking below. It was probably an Asiatic black bear. It was some distance away, so I could not tell how big it was. I set up my camera but could not catch it in time.

        この先で遭遇する可能性は低いが、実際に姿を見てしまうと不安になるものだ。バックパックに付けていた熊鈴を外して手に持ち、大げさに鳴らしながら山を下りた。

        It did not seem likely that I would encounter one further on, but seeing an actual bear made me feel uneasy, so I removed the bear bell attached to my backpack, and held it in my hand as I descended the mountain, so it would ring loudly.

        【今回歩いたコース】
        1日目:約1時間
        鳩街峠(1,591m)〜山の鼻小屋(1,409m)
        2日目:約5時間
        山の鼻小屋〜至仏山(2,228m)〜小至仏山〜悪沢岳分岐〜鳩待峠
        参考:尾瀬ハイキングガイド

        【Our route this time】
        Day 1: Approximately 1 hour
        Hatomachi-toge Pass (1,591m) – Oze Yamanohanagoya (1,409m)
        Day 2: Approximately 5 hours
        Oze Yamanohanagoya – Mount Shibutsu (2,228m) – Mount Koshibutsu – Mount Warusawa Junction – Hatomachi-toge Pass
        Reference: Oze hiking guide

        【プロフィール】
        鈴木優香
        山岳収集家。東京藝術大学修了。ライフワークとして国内外の山を巡り、道中で出合う美しい瞬間を拾い集めるように写真に収めている。山の景色をハンカチに仕立ててゆくプロジェクト「MOUNTAIN COLLECTOR」(2016年〜)、写真展「旅の結晶」(2023年)。
        www.mountaincollector.com

        【Profile】
        Yuka Suzuki
        After graduating from graduate school, she joined an outdoor manufacturer, where she worked on product planning and design, before going independent in 2016 and starting her own project, "MOUNTAIN COLLECTOR," in which she makes handkerchiefs from the scenery she sees in the mountains. She continues to express herself through photography, design, and writing, with mountains and travel as her life's work.
        www.mountaincollector.com

        2024年3月9日(土) Mar 9, 2024

        写真・文:鈴木優香

        Photo & Text: Yuka Suzuki


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